Introducing Amani Lambertsen Bespoke – A New Product Line at St. James
At St. James, we appreciate fine craftsmanship and attention to detail. We strive for perfection, and wholeheartedly believe that each and every step of the tailoring process, from fabric selection to body measurements, garment construction and fittings, is equally important for a great end result. That is why we are now introducing an additional line to our St. James brand, offering full bespoke services, skillfully done end-to-end by our new partner, Daniella Amani Lambertsen.
Daniella has been trained by tailors in Milan and has extensive experience with traditional tailoring techniques. Her style is Northern-Italian, stronger and more constructed than the Neapolitan counterpart, with a pronounced sleeve-head that is commonly referred to as a “con rollino”. These traits result in a flattering look, accentuating the shoulders and projecting a defined silhouette – a perfect blend between Italian softness and British sturdiness. Daniella’s garments are fully handmade, with the exception of specific parts for increased seam strength and durability. In line with traditional tailoring techniques, the collar and the lapels are pad stitched by hand.
The process of full bespoke is an experience more than anything. Daniella has an incredible eye for detail and always takes her time to ensure that the client is satisfied with every step along the way. As a general rule, four meetings are required throughout the bespoke process, sometimes more depending on the type of garment and the client fit. On the first visit, Daniella will sit down to discuss the client’s needs and wants and assist in the fabric selection. She will also do all the basic measurements required to start the work. Between this initial meeting and the first fitting, Daniella will construct a paper pattern based on the client’s measurements, cut the fabric and baste together a first draft in the desired cloth. This fitting garment will have unfinished lapels, simple sleeves and no pockets/buttons. The purpose is to ensure that the overall fit, based on the initial measurements, is good. If the fit is good, Daniella will proceed to complete the lapels, sleeves and finish up the lining. If the measurements need to be re-worked, Daniella will adjust the fitting garment and call for an additional fitting. However, that is usually not required.
Once the garment is lined and sleeves/lapels are finished, a second fitting will be arranged. At this stage, the overall fit should be satisfactory, and the garment will have most elements in place (lining, lapels, pockets, buttons), except for the collar. Once this is all checked out, Daniella will finish up the collar and focus on more detailed work with the exterior, like buttonhole finishing etc. A third fitting will now be arranged, and the garment is handed to the client, given that everything is in perfect order. The timeline of the process is usually between 6-8 weeks, depending on the number of required fittings and the number of projects in Daniella’s backlog.
We are incredibly proud to be able to offer this kind of service, and we are grateful to have Daniella as part of our team going forward. For more information about our bespoke line, please contact us on IG or through our website here.